Saturday 29 September 2018

Wave equation from Blackpool Tower

I was looking down from Blackpool Tower and noticed that the wavelength seemed to be increasing as the waves reached the shore. But the opposite should be true. Since velocity = frequency x wavelength and waves slow down in shallow water, the wavelength should decrease if the frequency remains the same. Maybe the wavelengths really are bigger further out but perspective makes them look smaller by comparison. A quick search of the Internet came up with some interesting sources to look at further.