Tuesday 9 December 2014

Refraction or diffraction at Saltholme?

I was watching the waves bend round the end of the island at Saltholme RSPB reserve. The strong wind was pushing the waves from top left to bottom right in the picture. When they reached the right hand tip of the island (roughly in the middle of the photograph) they bent right round the tip. That sounds like diffraction. But actually I think it was refraction. Waves slow down and change direction if they are incident obliquely on a different medium. And they were hitting shallower water. That makes them slow down. I think they were hitting it an angle so they changed direction as well. In the end, I noticed that the waves got closer together, thus having a smaller wavelength. The frequency must remain the same so it is clear evidence of slowing down from the wave equation: wave speed = frequency x wavelength. So it was refraction not diffraction this time.